The Symbolism of Birds in Jewellery

With a business name like "Goldcrest", it will come as a surprise to no-one that I love birds. Luckily for me jewellery makers spanning back centuries also shared my joy for the winged creatures and as such, birds feature prominently in jewellery across the ages. Their history and meaning are rich and intricate, from the majestic eagle to the humble duck. In this blog I will explore the symbolism of various birds and their use in the world of jewellery.

(Discover our current range of bird jewellery here!)

Above: A singing bird brooch by Carlo Giuliano, set with turquoise, coral, pearl and a ruby eye, with an enamelled wreath background circa 1885-1895 - Victoria & Albert Museum

Swallows

The Victorians in particular were rather enamoured with using swallows in jewellery, but they can be found on pieces spanning many decades. You may have seen brooches, bangles and pendants featuring these charming birds. But what do they symbolise?

Left: A barn swallow in flight

Right: A Victorian sterling silver paste swallow brooch, now sold - Goldcrest Antique & Vintage

The swallow is easy to identify due to its iconic forked tail. This tail lends the swallow increased maneuverability in the air, and also helps in attracting mates. Once together, a pair of swallows will breed for life - making them the perfect candidate for romantic jewellery.

A strong aspect of swallow symbolism is "distance" and "safe return". Swallows are well-known for their epic migration behaviours, often travelling up to 200 miles per day on their journey between continents. Despite these large distances, the birds are able to navigate their way back home. As such these birds often featured on sweetheart brooches - brooches given by a soldier to his wife or girlfriend as he was leaving for service, particularly during World War One. Women wore these as a constant reminder of their loved one, and as a supportive token that their partner would return home safely.

Left: A Victorian silver swallow and flower brooch dated 1889, now sold - Goldcrest Antique & Vintage

Right: A Victorian sapphire and diamond swallow brooch circa 1890, now sold - Bonhams

Left: A late 19th century rock crystal, diamond and pearl intaglio swallow brooch, now sold - Christie's

Right: An early 20th century enamel and seed pearl fob watch with swallow detail, now sold - Bonhams

Doves

You are likely familiar with the role of the dove in the biblical story of Noah's Ark: "And the dove came in to him at eventide; and, lo, in her mouth an olive-leaf plucked off: so Noah knew that the waters were abated from off the earth" - returning to Noah, the dove had found land and brought with her hope of life.

It was Christianity that birthed the idea of the dove carrying an olive branch symbolising peace, however the dove appears in a multitude of cultures and languages across the ages, each with subtle nuances in meaning.

Above: A pair of Hellenistic gold dove earrings, circa 300BC-200BC - The British Museum

So, what makes the dove so special? The dove - which is in the same family as the pigeon - is widespread geographically, residing in almost every place on earth save for a few extreme locations such as the Sahara desert and Antarctica.

Being so abundant, its interaction with humans is inevitable. Besides from serving as a tasty meat used in cooking, doves and pigeons have been domesticated for hundreds of years and used as messengers. Notably the pigeon played a vital role during World Wars One and Two, delivering plans to allied forces throughout Europe. So important were they that several eminent pigeons were awarded medals for their services in England and France.

Left: A white dove

Right: An antique dove brooch of French origin mounted in silver by an unknown maker, circa 1755 - Victoria & Albert Museum

Looking back to more ancient times, we can see that the dove was often held in high regard across the globe. Their role differs from religion to religion, but common themes can be observed:

• Greek Mythology: A prominent symbol of the goddess Aphrodite was the dove, and as such she is often depicted with them. The blood of a sacrificed dove was offered during the Aphrodisia (Aphrodite's festival) in ancient Greece. 
• Paganism: The mesopotamian goddess Inanna (or Ishtar) was thought to have taken the form of a dove. Ancient figurines depict the goddess holding a dove dating back to thirteenth century BC.
• Islam: A dove was said to have aided the prophet Muhammad by distracting his enemies outside the cave of Thaw'r, on his Hegira - the migration of the prophet and his followers in the year 622. As such, doves are respected in the Islamic religion.
• Judaism: As in Christianity, the story of Noah's Ark appears in the Talmud. The Babylonian Talmud compares the dove to the Jewish people.

Above: A Victorian gold "Roma" micro-mosaic souvenir brooch featuring two white doves, now sold - Goldcrest Antique & Vintage

Owls

Left: A little owl (Athene noctua)

Right: A gold signet ring of Greek origin depicting Athena with an owl, circa 400BC - The British Museum

Owls are associated with wisdom in many cultures across the world. In Greek mythology, Athena - the goddess of wisdom - is accompanied by a Little Owl. You may notice that the latin name for the little owl, Athene noctua, stems from this association.

Alongside wisdom the owl is also considered a symbol of wealth, prosperity and fortune in Hinduism and, at the opposite end of the spectrum, a symbol of death in Native American folklore and also in ancient Egypt. In fact the owl was seen as an ill omen in the western world throughout the entirety of the middle ages, due to the fact that it only appeared at night and disappeared during the day. Luckily this perception has since faded and nowadays the owl is seen in a much more positive light.

Given the startled expression of an owl's face it is perhaps not surprising that they are often adorned with bright, gemstone eyes when used in jewellery. The stones used range from emeralds to rubies, garnets and sapphires and are sometimes cabochon cut to give a smooth, rounded appearance.

Above, left: An antique owl in the moon brooch in 9ct gold, with cabochon garnet eyes, now sold - Goldcrest Antique & Vintage

Above, right: An antique double owl brooch in 9ct gold, with cabochon emerald eyes, now sold - Goldcrest Antique & Vintage 

Eagles

Above: A rock crystal intaglio of Prometheus lying upon a rock, a bird of prey descending upon him, Italian, 16th century - The British Museum

The majestic eagle, with its soaring wings and keen eyesight, has been a symbol of power and strength throughout history. In many cultures, eagles represent courage, freedom, and leadership. In Native American traditions, eagles hold sacred significance and are associated with spirituality and divine connections. Eagles have been revered, celebrated, and studied for millennia, leaving a remarkable mark on various cultures and societies for thousands of years.

In ancient Egypt, the eagle was associated with the sun god Ra and was often depicted as a powerful and protective deity. In Mesopotamia, the eagle was linked to the god Nisroch, who was believed to have the head of an eagle. In Greek mythology, the eagle was associated with Zeus, the king of the gods, and was often depicted carrying his thunderbolts.

Above: A gold eagle brooch by Castellani of Rome, in the form of a Roman imperial eagle, Italian, circa 1860 - Victoria & Albert Museum

Real Birds Used in Jewellery

Taxidermy and the use of real creatures in any form of art can be controversial, especially works of an antique nature where the wellbeing of animals was seen as far less important than it is in today's society. Despite one's personal feelings I find taxidermy curious and fascinating; the idea of a creature being preserved and admired, especially those specimens which you may only have ever been able to see in pictures or drawings.

You may be wondering what I am talking about here. You have seen jewellery which uses parts of an animal, I am sure - perhaps some feathers, a piece of butterfly wing... but what about an entire head?

Above: A pair of ruby-topaz hummingbird earrings with gold fittings by Henry Emanuel, circa 1865 - Victoria & Albert Museum

For anyone interested in these particular earrings, or in jewellery conservation, I highly recommend reading this short journal from the V&A in which they discuss the efforts they went to in order to research and restore these amazing pieces.

The Victorians were enamoured with incorporating real life animals and insects into their fashions - not only small birds but large birds also were stuffed and mounted to hats in a display of opulence. Goldsmiths would make bespoke items of jewellery for customers who could afford it, with the exotic and colourful hummingbird seemingly a popular choice.

In these pieces shown the beaks have been recreated in gold, and the eye sockets set with coloured gemstones.

Above: A gold necklace with seven pendants, each set with the head of a hummingbird by Harry Emanuel, circa 1865 - The British Museum

In Conclusion

Birds in jewellery represent a timeless fascination with nature's beauty and the symbolic meanings we attribute to these magnificent creatures. From the majestic bird of prey to the delicate hummingbird, each bird carries its own unique significance, inspiring jewellery designs that captivate hearts and tell stories. As we embrace ethical practices in the world of jewellery, we can continue to celebrate and preserve the essence of birds while honoring their natural habitats and protecting their future on this planet.

So, the next time you wear a bird-inspired piece, remember the rich symbolism it carries and the precious connection it holds to the world of birds and our planet.

Above: An antique brooch of French origin depicting a vulture fighting a snake, set with turquoise, emerald and pearls with ruby eyes, designed by Messrs Auguste Blender, circa 1860 - British Museum

 

(Discover our current range of bird jewellery here!)

Sources: Wikipedia | The British Museum | The Victoria & Albert Museum