Gold Filled, Gold Plated, Rolled Gold - What's The Difference?

If you've ever been confused by the myriad terms used in non-solid gold jewellery then don't worry - you're not the only one. Gold plated, gold filled, gold cased, rolled gold... what do they all mean? How do I tell them apart? Help!

The short answer is: because making solid gold jewellery is expensive. Since time immemorial, artists and jewellers have used gold substitutes or small percentages of gold in combination with other metals to create pieces that give an overall gold effect, but at a fraction of the price. Different techniques have been created and have evolved over time. Let's take a look at some terms you may come across online and in the real world when shopping for jewellery to understand exactly what they mean.

What it means: Rolled gold is made by applying a thin layer of gold onto a base metal, such as copper or brass, through pressure bonding. Rolled gold items are usually heavier than solid gold items due to the metal base or core, and are usually longer lasting than gold plated pieces where the layer of gold is much thinner. Antique fob seals are often gold cased, having a metal core rather than a solid gold body. The modern term for rolled gold is "gold fill".

Where you will see it used:In antique jewellery from the early 1800's, and in vintage jewellery until as late as the 1960's. Some items are helpfully stamped "ROLLED GOLD", or occasionally "RG" or "RGP" for Rolled Gold Plate, but many rolled gold items are not marked at all.

When it was invented: Officially in 1817 by Englishman John Turner who patented the technique, although it was likely invented earlier and not documented.

What it means: Jewellery created by bonding gold to a base metal such as brass or copper, similar to rolled gold, except that gold filled jewellery nowadays must contain at least 5% gold (or 1/20) by total weight in order to be called "Gold Filled". Still a better alternative to gold plated items as the gold layer will be thicker and therefore longer lasting. Some gold filled jewellery pieces are stamped as such, or simply "GF".

Where you will see it used: In antique items from the 1850's and all the way through to items of the present day.

When it was invented: The term "gold fill" was patented in the United States in the mid-19th century.

What it means: The process of electroplating metal with a thin layer (usually between 1-2.5 microns) of gold to create an outward gold effect. Gold plated items are prone to wear, depending on the thickness of their plating, and do not carry any gold value. 

Where you will see it used: In antique, vintage and modern items. Gold plating is still widely used today.

When it was invented: In 1805 (surprisingly!) by Italian chemist Luigi Brugnatelli. It was later commercialised in the 1840's by John Wright and Henry and George Elkington, who created a patent in England.

What it means: Lockets that are described as gold back and front have gold fronts and gold backs, usually 9 carat gold, with a hard-wearing base metal (such as brass) serving as the hinge and inner sections. These base metal sections were often also gold plated to give an overall gold appearance. Back and front pieces are able to be engraved and are generally long-lasting with more durability than gold plated pieces (which generally have a much thinner layer of gold).

Where you will see it used: From the mid-Victorian era and into the late 20th century. Lockets are often stamped "BACK AND FRONT" or "B&F", but plenty of unmarked pieces also exist.

When it was invented: I haven't been able to pinpoint an exact inventor, but it is believed to have originated in the mid 1800's.

What it means: The process of applying a thin layer of high carat gold on top of silver, usually sterling (925) or higher (950+). A type of plating specific to using it on silver, rather than a base metal. Gilded items can and will wear over time, revealing the silver underneath. Having an item re-gilded is also possible.

Where you will see it used: Gilding is still used today, so you will see it in effect in a multitude of items from different eras from pendants to rings to ornaments. Functional antique silverware items such as salt and pepper shakers, sugar castors and cutlery were often gilded for a luxurious appearance.

When it was invented: In France in the mid 1700's, hence the French term "vermeil". It is another example of a technique fashioned to avoid making solid gold items, which carried hefty costs.

What it means: A metal alloy consisting of copper and zinc designed as a low cost alternative to gold. Notably, Pinchbeck does not actually contain any gold.

Where you will see it used: Exclusively in antique jewellery from the 1700's until the mid 1800's. Pinchbeck fell out of use in England when lower carat gold (such as 9 carat) was introduced into jewellery making, providing a cheaper alternative to high carat gold. The term "Pinchbeck" is often used erroneously by some dealers as a general term for non-solid gold pieces - always double check by asking questions, as a seller should be able to tell you why they think an item is specifically Pinchbeck.

When it was invented: At some point in the early 18th century by Christopher Pinchbeck, born circa 1670 - died 1732.

What it means: The technique of applying a thin layer of gold (or silver) to base metal using an amalgam containing mercury; the mercury is mostly vaporised during the application. Mercury is an incredibly dangerous substance and historically many workers using this technique suffered terribly due to inhaling the vapors.

Where you will see it used: It's no longer used these days due to the toxic fumes the process creates, but it was still used up until the 19th century. Safer methods eventually took over, putting a nail in the coffin of mercury gilding for good. Items created using this technique include bronze statues, clocks, ornaments and sometimes jewellery. It creates a luxurious and "bloomed" gold appearance that is hard to replicate with other techniques.

When it was invented: A long, long time ago - I'm going to quote Wikipedia for this one!

"Mercury-gilding was invented by Chinese Daoists in the 4th century CE and was used for the gilding of bronze plaques. It was known to Pliny, Vitruvius and in the early medieval period to Theophilus."

Technically no, because they are all different techniques to one another - however it is common to see unmarked antique and vintage items described as any of the above, because it can be difficult to determine what an item is made of when it isn't stamped! 

Does it matter? Not really, unless you care about semantics.

Most importantly when purchasing you should be aware that you aren't buying a solid gold piece, and therefore may experience the gold layer wearing away over time. Some plated pieces will wear quicker than others, depending on the thickness of the plate; it really depends on each individual item. If the item is antique (over 100 years old) and still looks gold-like, then that's a great sign for the years ahead!

Yes! The value is going to be different compared to a gold item, because gold in and of itself has intrinsic value - it can be scrapped and melted down.

There is often very little gold content in rolled gold or gold filled items, but that doesn't mean these items aren't well made or well designed. In fact, back and front lockets can last longer than gold lockets due to their base metal core. Gold is a soft metal and is prone to wear - the higher the carat, the softer it is.

Whilst rolled gold or back and front items don't have scrap value per se, they can be valued by their craftsmanship, beauty, rarity and wearability, just like items made from precious metals.