Welcome to what I call The JewelPedia™ (but not really trademarked, I just like the little symbol). This is a comprehensive glossary of terms associated with all things jewellery, with a focus on antique and vintage terms that you may come across online or when shopping.

You can use CTRL + F on desktop or your browser's Find function to search for a specific word. Feel free to contact me to make a suggestion or ask a question!

A

Akoya Pearl A cultured pearl produced in Japan, named so after the Akoya Pearl Oyster (阿古屋貝 A-Ko-Ya Gai) and brought to prominence by Kokichi Mikimoto after he successfully created spherical pearls from the oysters in the 1920's.

Albert (Chain) A linked chain used to attach to a pocket watch and then worn with a waistcoat. Single Albert chains had two ends; one for the pocket watch and the other for the T-Bar or fob. Double Albert chains were more three-parted, with the T-bar or fob in the centre, leaving one end for the pocket watch and another end for another item (such as a watch winding key). Named so after Prince Albert, husband to Queen Victoria of England, who was often seen wearing one.

Albertina (Chain) The female version (oo-er) of the above mentioned Albert chain, different due to its size and style. Albertinas are generally shorter, more ornate and have fancier fob attachments such as tassels, hearts and orbs. They were designed for women with their smaller pocket watches.

Albo Silver An alloy comprised of zinc, nickel and copper with a thick silver plating. Created in the late 1800's, Albo silver was often used to create Albert chains and their fob attachments.

Assay Office Institutions that assess and stamp precious metals with hallmarks to guarantee their authenticity. Each assay office in England has a different stamp specific to that location, for example the Birmingham anchor or the Sheffield rose. The London assay office in England has been assaying items since 1300, making it the oldest assay office in existence today.

B

Back and Front A technique commonly used for lockets and other items in the late 1800's and into the 20th century. Lockets that are described as gold back and front have solid gold fronts and solid gold backs, usually 9 carat gold, with a hard-wearing base metal (such as brass) serving as the hinge and inner sections. These base metal sections were often also gold plated to give an overall gold appearance. Back and front pieces are able to be engraved and are generally long-lasting with more durability than gold plated pieces (which generally have a much thinner layer of gold).

Base Metal A non-precious metal that is prone to corrosion or oxidation. Base metal is used in some jewellery to save on costs, as it is less expensive to have a base metal core with a gold coating or layer on top as opposed to a solid gold piece.

Bog Oak Fantastically and aptly named, "bog oak" jewellery refers to pieces made from fossilised wood, mostly from Irish peat bogs. The wood was often oak but could also be yew or pine. The black colour came from the peat. The wood was then carved, and often featured Irish motifs such as shamrocks and harps.

Butterfly Wing A technique of making jewellery using pieces of real butterfly wing, usually as a backing, with painted crystal or glass laid on top. The vivid and iridescent colours of the scales created beautiful and eye-catching items, which were produced heavily in the 1920's. For further detailed information, check out my blog on butterfly wing jewellery here.

C

Cabochon A cut of gemstone referring to a smooth, polished and domed shape. Cabochons usually have a flat base. Stones such as opal, turquoise, moonstone and amber are most often cabochon cut. A sugarloaf cabochon has a four-sided or pyramid-esque shape instead of a dome, and is a lot less common than a regular cabochon.

CITES Short for "Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora", a treaty designed to protect endangered animals and plants from being traded. Items made from materials such as ivory, tortoiseshell and certain species of coral are prohibited and designed to protect conservation. Some antique items are exempt, but be sure to do your research if you are interested in acquiring items of this nature.

Claddagh Most often seen in rings, the Claddagh is an Irish symbol of two hands, a heart and a crown representing friendship, love and loyalty respectively. Its origins date back to the 17th century in the town of Claddagh, county Galway. Historically, Claddagh rings were used as wedding or betrothal rings.

Cultured Pearl (also called Cultivated Pearls) A pearl which has been formed in an oyster but with human intervention; by placing a small spherical object inside a living mollusk, the oyster produces layers upon layers of nacre around the object to form a pearl. A cultured pearl is a real pearl but is different to a natural pearl, which is formed organically within nature and with no humans helping the process. Cultured pearls therefore are often far more round and "perfect" looking than natural pearls.

D

Damascene A technique that involves the inlay of different metals, such as gold and oxidised silver, to create a piece with contrast. Damascene jewellery can be of different origins, but Japanese and Spanish pieces are often found in the vintage market.

Demi-parure A partial matching suite or set of jewellery consisting of at least two pieces, compared to a Parure which is a full matching set. The matching items tend to be earrings, bracelet, necklace and brooch.

Depose (or Déposé) A French term for "patented" or "registered", found stamped onto certain pieces of French vintage jewellery. It doesn't relate to a brand but is rather a stamp to denote a certain level of quality. The stamp "DEP" can also be found on some pieces. 

E

Egyptian Revival A style of jewellery which became popular in the late 19th to early 20th centuries, consisting of Egyptian themed motifs such as pharoahs, pyramids and desert scenes. The discovery of King Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 provided another wave of interest and therefore another wave of jewellery production. Real scarab beetles were often used to create pendants, earrings and brooches. 

Elephant Hair Jewellery Most often seen tightly woven into thin bands or bracelets with gold or silver using real hair from the tails of elephants. The hair is naturally coarse and then treated, and has a hard, almost wood-like appearance when used in jewellery. Victorian and more modern pieces exist on the market today, however CITES passed a law in 2016 prohibiting the trade of elephant hair items without a permit.

Enamel A specific mixture of powdered glass which is then adhered onto metal (or other materials) at a high temperature. The different techniques of enamelling mostly have French names due to France being among the first to use certain painting techniques during the Renaissance period. These include Plique-à-Jour, Cloisonné and Champlevé. Importantly the term "cold enamel" is not actually enamel, and is in fact resin.

Essex Crystal (also called Reverse Crystal or Reverse Intaglio) The artful technique of hand-carving into a cabochon cut piece of rock crystal with a flat back, and then painting the carving to create a 3D-like image when viewed through the dome at the front. Animals were often the subject. The term Essex Crystal is attributed to English painter William Essex (1784-1869), however he had no association with the crystal technique and it was a bit of a misunderstanding that his name was tied to it at all. It stuck, however!

Eternity Ring A type of ring or band with gemstones that cover either half of the band's surface (a half eternity) or the full circumference (a full eternity). The symbolism of an eternity ring is an everlasting bond, referencing the neverending circle of metal and gemstones. Traditionally, an eternity ring is paired with an engagement ring and a wedding band on the same finger.

Etruscan A revival style of jewellery named after the Etruscan civilisation of ancient Italy, themes of which include granulation, filigree and matte-finished yellow gold. The Victorians were fans of this style and many Etruscan revival pieces were made up until the 20th century including bold lockets with thick, fancy linked chains, pendulous drop earrings and eye-catching brooches with gemstones and enamel.

F

Faith, Hope and Charity (sometimes Faith, Hope and Love) A symbol comprising of three parts: Faith represented by a cross; Hope represented by an anchor; and Charity represented by a heart. The term is of Christian origin. Commonly seen as charms or pendants with each piece able to move independently.

Fede Ring A type of betrothal ring featuring two clasped hands with ancient origins, dating back to at least Roman times. "Fede" refers to "mani in fede" which is Italian for "hands in faith".

French Fix The technique of plating gold onto brass, discovered by Francois Savard in 1823. The gold is usually high carat (14 or 18), and is thickly plated to give the appearance of a solid gold piece. As such, French fix items are durable and long-lasting with little signs of wear to the plating. Items made with this technique are often simply stamped "fix".

French Jet Black, faceted glass designed to imitate real jet. French jet came about as a cheaper alternative and was often used in antique mourning jewellery.

Freshwater Pearl A pearl which has been grown, either naturally or with human help, in a freshwater mussel (not an oyster). Natural freshwater pearls will often be unusually shaped (called "baroque") whereas pearls created with human intervention will be spherical.

G

Gilt (also called Silver Gilt or Vermeil) The process of applying a thin layer of high carat gold on top of silver, usually sterling (925) or higher. A type of plating specific to using it on silver, rather than a base metal. Gilded items can and will wear over time, revealing the silver underneath. Having an item re-gilded is also possible.

Gold Cased (also see Rolled Gold) A technique of bonding gold onto a base metal to give the appearance of a solid gold item. Often more durable than gold plating due to the thicker layer of gold used.

Gold Filled Jewellery created by bonding gold to a base metal, similar to rolled gold, except that gold filled jewellery must contain at least 5% gold by total weight. Still a better alternative to gold plated items as the gold layer will be thicker and therefore longer lasting. Some gold filled jewellery pieces are stamped as such, or simply "GF".

Gold Plated The process of electroplating metal with a thin layer (usually between 1-2.5 microns) of gold to create an outward gold effect. Gold plated items are prone to wear, depending on the thickness of their plating, and do not carry any gold value. 

H

Hallmark A series of stamps imprinted onto a precious metal object by an Assay office. A full hallmark will tell you a number of things about the item; what metal it is made out of, where it was assayed, the year in which it was stamped, and the maker of the item. Not all hallmarks have all of this information, but a genuine hallmark can be looked at under magnification to guarantee an item's metal purity, i.e. that it is sterling silver and not of a lower grade. Each country has its own hallmarking system and therefore a plethora of different marks exist (which can make identifying jewellery difficult!). This is a great website for identifying British and Irish date letters. 

I

Intaglio The technique of hand-carving an image or motto into the face of a stone. Intaglios date way back to Roman times where they were used functionally as a form of signature or identity, as well as in jewellery. Commonly seen in the guise of signet rings, fob seals and pendants, with bloodstone, carnelian and rock crystal often used.

Ivory Material created from the tusks of elephants and less commonly hippos and whales, often carved and polished into jewellery, netsukes, figurines or trinkets. It can sometimes be confused with bone, although it does have a unique cross-section when cut open. Most dealings with ivory are illegal nowadays; refer to CITES and your country's specific laws for further clarification.

J

Jabot A type of pin or brooch comprised of two parts, often with gemstones and motifs at both ends, sometimes joined by a safety chain. Named so because they were originally designed to fasten a jabot; a decorative frill or ruff designed for men in the 17th century onwards.

K

 

L

Luckenbooth Deriving from the Edinburgh tenements in the 15th century where jewellery was sold, the term Luckenbooth refers to the Scottish love token symbol of a crown above two intertwined hearts or a single heart. This type of jewellery (originally brooches although pendants also exist) was often given as a wedding or betrothal gift. The word Luckenbooth itself comes from "lockable booth", i.e. the shops in which the jewellery was sold.

M

Masonic Jewellery Pieces with masonic symbology such as the square and compasses, a symbol belonging to Freemasonry. The Masonic ball is a popular item, this being a multi-sectioned cross made up of pyramid shaped sections which fold up into a ball or orb, most often made in 9 carat gold with silver gilt interiors (although solid gold versions also exist). Another example of masonic jewellery with secret messages are signet rings with swivelling heads, allowing the masonic imagery to be shown or hidden by flipping the revolving panel around.

Memento Mori Latin for "Remember to die", a phrase that inspired macabre artwork, architecture and jewellery starting in the medieval period. Death being the common theme, symbols such as skulls, bones, coffins and dying flowers are present in these works, often alongside black enamel when used in jewellery. Memento mori pieces are highly collectible and sought after.

Micro Mosaic Small or miniature mosaics meticulously created using tiny pieces of coloured glass or enamel, often depicting Italian views, Roman scenes, birds and animals. Victorian era pieces are commonly found as they were picked up as souvenirs by wealthy travellers experiencing the "Grand Tour". Brooches, earrings, pendants and sometimes full matching suites in either gold or silver exist on the market today.

Mizpah Often found engraved or embossed onto rings, brooches and bracelets, the term MIZPAH is a religious term of Hebrew origin meaning "watchtower". In the bible, Genesis 31:49, it states "And Mizpah; for he said, The LORD watch between me and thee, when we are absent one from another." These pieces of jewellery were sentimental in nature and were given as a token of love or friendship. 

Mourning Jewellery The notion of remembering dead loved ones in the form of jewellery, sometimes encapsulating real locks of hair from the deceased, often woven into beautiful patterns, alongside sentimental inscriptions and engravings. The Georgians and Victorians were very much into this craft, and many pieces still survive today. Lockets, pendants and rings are most often seen, sometimes incorporating black enamel and dark-coloured gemstones. White enamel was usually used when commemorating a child's death.

N

Niello An ancient technique dating back to Bronze Age, similar to enamel. A black substance generally made of copper, sulphur, lead and silver which is used in engraving and inlay work. Enamel eventually took over in popularity for use in jewellery due to the wide range of colours available.

O

Ouroboros The symbol of a snake or dragon eating its own tail, forming a complete circle or figure-of-eight and therefore representing eternity, dating back to ancient Egypt. The ouroboros often takes on the form of gold and silver rings in jewellery, the circular shape being perfect for these pieces. You will often find them described as snake rings or serpent rings, and can be found with or without gemstones.

P

Parure A full matching set or suite of jewellery, usually consisting of (a combination of) a pair of earrings, a bracelet, a necklace or pendant, a ring and a brooch. Sets made for royalty would sometimes include a tiara.

Paste A term for cut glass. Originally this was high-lead glass cut by hand and either polished with a metal powder, or backed by foil to give it the appearance of a gemstone. It was called "paste" because the components of the lead mixture were mixed wet, hence creating a paste. The glass could be created in varying colours using pigments. Swarovski crystal is a modern-day paste that does not contain lead. For further detailed information, check out my blog on paste jewellery here.

Pietra Dura An Italian phrase meaning "hard stone", Pietra Dura jewellery is made by inlaying cut, coloured stones into a hard stone base, normally creating an artistic image. Flowers are commonly seen, as well as birds. It was first used in Rome in the 16th century.

Pinchbeck A metal alloy consisting of copper and zinc designed as low cost alternative that resembles gold. Named so after its inventor Christopher Pinchbeck (circa 1670-1732). Nowadays the term is used loosely by some to describe generic gilded items.

Platinon A base metal alloy designed to imitate platinum, created in the 1920's in Birmingham, England. It was marketed as "untarnishable". It does not contain any precious metal but does retain value due to it only being produced for a few short years. For context of its scarcity, I have never come across a platinon piece in my 18 years of jewellery trading!

Precious Gemstones (also Semi-precious Gemstones) A somewhat dated but still used term for certain gemstones of a particular rarity or quality. Precious gemstones usually refer to diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds specifically, whereas "semi-precious" gemstones refer to garnets, amethysts, tourmalines, zircons and just about everything else. The precious and semi-precious terms came about at some point in the 19th century for commerical reasons and has little to do with overall quality, especially nowadays. There are many "semi-precious" gemstones that exceed precious stones in colour, quality and value.

Q

 

R

Rolled Gold Rolled gold is made by applying a thin layer of gold onto a base metal through pressure bonding. Rolled gold items are usually heavier than gold items due to the metal base or core, and are usually longer lasting than gold plated pieces where the layer of gold is much thinner. Rolled gold was a technique first created in the early 1800's and was popular as it gives the appearance of a solid gold piece at a fraction of the cost.

S

Stuart Crystal Jewellery dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries comprised of faceted rock crystal overlaid on miniature portraits, mottoes or intricate hairwork. The table cut rock crystal allowed the mementos below to be viewed, like glass. Rings, brooches and pendants can still be found on the secondhand market today, however due to the scarcity they command a high value. The namesake comes from the period of English rule (the House of Stuart) when this form of jewellery was created.

Suffragette Jewellery Denoted by pieces containing the colours purple, green and white (most often amethyst, peridot and pearls respectively). The Suffragette movement of 1903-1918 was started by Emmeline Pankhurst through her women's only organisation, WSPU - Women's Social and Political Union. It was created to help give women the vote in Britain and Ireland. The idea of the jewellery was to show one's support and allegiance to the cause. It later became very popular, with Mappin & Webb creating a special Suffragette jewellery catalogue around 1908.

Sweetheart Brooch Most often associated with military, naval or RAF-themed regimental brooches during WWI and WWII. A serving man would give a brooch to his loved one before leaving for service, in order for her to always remember him by.

T

Tortoiseshell Items made using the scales of mostly marine turtles, the trade of which having been prohibited since 1973 (CITES). Certain species of turtles were exploited for their shells, the scales of which were heated, shaped and polished. Not commonly seen in jewellery but often seen in silverware items such as combs and trinket boxes, as well as in furniture. Genuine tortoiseshell items are fragile, require careful handling and should only be cleaned by a professional. Faux tortoiseshell made from resin or plastic is a modern ethical alternative and widely available.

U

Uranium Glass Pieces of glassware that have had small amounts of uranium added into the mix before melting, creating eerie, neon-green glowing items. It's inadvisable to use uranium glassware for eating or drinking from, but wearable or display pieces are perfectly safe to own.

V

Vauxhall Glass A type of glass made in the 19th century with roots in the Vauxhall area of London, England, where it is supposed the leftovers from glass or mirror factories were used. The glass was designed to imitate gemstones and provide a cost-effective alternative. The cut glass stones were backed with foil, giving them a shimmering, gem-like effect when viewed from the front. Vauxhall glass was almost exclusively set into base metal and made into costume jewellery. 

Vulcanite The heated sap of specific trees that is mixed with sulphur, and molded into jewellery. Often used in Victorian times to create mourning jewellery due to its black colour, as an alternative to jet which was more expensive. The process came about in the 1830's.

W

Witch's Heart A heart shape with the pointy end curled to one side. With roots in Germany and Scotland in or around the 17th century, the shape has evolved to symbolise protection or love/bewitchment. Antique brooches in gold or silver were often open in the centre, the outline of the heart mounted with gemstones.

Y

 

Z